This is also a good example of the highlight protection with Active D-Lighting that I mentioned here. In this situation with a large portion of the frame being dark and in the shade, I underexposed by one stop, used f/11 for sufficient depth of field, and had the camera in Aperture priority (with Active D-Lighting on High, as usual) do the rest. The resulting exposure, when imported into Lightroom and interpreted with the "Camera Neutral v4" profile looks like this:
![]() |
| Original Exposure, ISO200, f/11, 1/15s @ 24mm, polarizer |
In Lightroom, I applied what looks like quite extreme settings (see screenshot). Highlights all the way down, Shadows all the way up, Whites all the way down (to salvage the peaking highlights on these rocks; I think that the Whites control is closest to what Recovery did in Lightroom 3), and Blacks almost all the way up again too.
Clarity in Lightroom 4 has much more punch and brings back the detail on the rocks and in the shadows, just were in needed them. This is something that was previously impossible to achieve with Lightroom, and would require some sort of tone-mapping, like using Color Efex' Tonal Contrast or Detail Extractor filters (I wrote about it before in this article).
Because the very strong adjustments left the image a bit dull looking, I increased Vibrance to compensate for the lack of lifeliness.
Other than the adjustments in the Basic panel, I applied a local adjustment (brush) in the dark lower area, dodging it by 0.39 and adding yet more Clarity - it really works miracles in the shadows and lights, bringing back structure and detail. No other adjustments have been made - I didn't even touch the Tone Curve (where I sometimes used a self-defined parametric curve to increase the Darks and Shadows in Lightroom 3 for this kind of scene).
Here's what the final image looks like - a very HDR-like look, created with Lightroom alone, from a single exposure. I have no doubt that the large and clean D700 pixels make it possible to recover so much shadow detail with relatively little noise, but it illustrates the possibilities and the dynamic range that can be captured in a single raw file quite nicely. ;)
![]() |
| Final image with adjustments. |
You can switch back and forth between the original and the finalized image in the lightbox (click on the photo).



actually it's a kind easy way to put more dynamic range in to your picture, isn't it?
ReplyDeleteYes. My point is that you needed external editors for Lightroom 3, but you can achieve the same result with Lightroom 4 alone, mostly by staying in the Basic adjustments panel.
ReplyDeleteThat's briliant.... so I'll wait for the next update as you recomended and then upgrade... :-) Thank you Alex, I appreciate to learn from your experience as somehow I can't manage to stay up-to-date with innovation... Thank you for that and many greetings to Shuween.
ReplyDeleteVery useful tips here, thanks.
ReplyDeleteI've had Active D-lighting turned off on my D7000 so far and thus I'm not familiar with how it works (or doesn't sometimes, I guess.) Was wondering why you set it to high rather than leaving it on Auto?
It's simply a matter of being in control. With ADL set to "high" I know it will always protect the maximum of highlights. When it's set to "auto" I never know what it will do... :)
ReplyDeletehttp://blog.alex-kunz.com/2012/03/highlight-protection-with-nikons-active.html